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GREASY HAIR

Try to avoid daily washing. The sebaceous glands are overstimulated, secreting more grease onto the hair. This creates a vicious circle where the more you wash is the greasier it becomes.

Another problem with regular washing is that although the roots are greasy the rest of your hair is stripped of oil and the ends become dry and brittle. Use a mild ph-balanced shampoo and wash hair without rubbing the scalp too much. Only apply conditioner to the mid and ends rather than at the roots.

Watch your diet. Oily and fatty foods can contribute to greasy skin and scalp. Best of all is to use those days when you're at home to give your hair a rest from

daily washing. Try using a children's shampoo as these are often mild enough for greasy hair.

Dry, coarse and brittle hair needs to be nourished from within; a conditioner that just rinses out won't do the job. Use an intensive moisturising shampoo which will cleanse without excessive rubbing (which will damage the hair more) and follow with a hot oil conditioner. Heat opens up the hair cuticles allowing the moisturiser to penetrate the hair shaft giving it suppleness, bounce and movement. Mousse on dry hair will make it look dull, use a blow drying or thickening lotion instead.

Keep your hair well conditioned with a rich moisturising product. The hairstyle is also important. If your hair is very frizzy you don't want too many layers. Have a few longish ones that will allow your hair to flow. Always use a diffuser when blowdrying which will help control the frizz but will not remove all the body.

If you only have a little grey a semi-permanent colour wash (stays for six to eight washes) will cover it. For more than 30 per cent grey then a quasi colour covers grey whilst keeping a natural look. When you go grey in patches, a permanent tint or a foil and tone technique - where highlights are woven around the top and crown and a semi-permanent colour is put through the rest of the hair - is the only way to cover up. This creates warmth and depth throughout the hair.

New mums often find their hair thins quite a lot, particularly around the crown area, after the birth. This is quite normal and don't worry about it. Stress can cause hair loss as well. Eventually your hair will return to normal. Meanwhile you can follow the tips for thin hair.

It is essential you have a good cut, just below jaw length is recommended with a few layers using clever graduation. Colour enhancing can also help to create the illusion of body and blow-drying technique is very important. Start from the crown and take long sweeping sections. Use a wide-toothed vent brush parallel to the hair line an lift the hair up and towards the crown putting a slight crease at the root so you put the lift in at the roots before styling the rest. Use a few large Velcro rollers around the crown when the hair is still warm from blow-drying; this can give added lift. Put them in, spray with hairspray and then dry for five minutes with a hairdryer before allowing them to cool down properly.

The more of your hair you colour the more noticeable the regrowth will be, particularly when going blonder, and the more colour you apply the greater the damage. For that blonde look a few carefully chosen highlights, focusing the lighter ones around the face will give a natural look without obvious regrowth. When colouring light hair remember dye will always come out darker than shown on the box so if, for example, you want dark brown hair choose a mid-brown colour.

Styling products such as serums can contain silicon, which build up on the hair and need regular cleansing. When possible leave off the styling products to give your hair a rest. Change shampoos occasionally, especially when using moisture rich shampoos. Try switching to milder ph balanced shampoos.

There is no way to speed up the growth of hair but you can keep it healthy. Regular trimming every six to eight weeks will keep thin ends in check. Watch your diet as well - make sure you get sufficient vitamins and minerals especially B12 and Iron.

Once your hair has split the damage is done and will require cutting so protect it by keeping it supple and moisturised. Use a leave-in conditioner.

Blow drying the hair can damage it so always use a nozzell on your hairdryer concentrating on the hair shaft. If the damage has already been done a serum applied to split ends will help disguise them and can help protect the hair when applying direct heat such as from curling tongs or heated rollers. The only real solution is to cut the offending ends off.

Taking a picture with you is good if you have an idea of a style, or you could ask the stylist to suggest something. Give as much information about yourself as possible, such as how much time you have to spend on you hair and what you think the limits of your styling abilities are. Generally if you have a long narrow face then a style with width does the trick. If it's round then a soft textured style should suite.

Thin hair can easily be disguised by a really good cut. The natural look is back in fashion so go for a style that suits your hair type as well as your face shape rather than trying to get your hair to do something which doesn't come naturally.

Choose a style that is not too long and shaped into the nape of the neck. There are a variety of products that can also help. Thickening shampoos work well and also make the hair more controllable. A semi-permanent vegetable wash-in colour can also give a feeling of thickness. Careful drying with a blow dry lotion can also help control flyaway static hair.

Advantages: Hair looks like dreads the same day and reaches maturity faster than other methods. You can control the size and shape of the dreads, anywhere from thick and smooth to thin and sexy. It is an all natural method. Backcombing will work on all hair lengths 3" and longer.

Disadvantages: The initial dreading takes a few hours and is pretty labour intensive, nothing a good friend or two cannot handle. The best way to back comb is to take your time and make the dreads as smooth and tight as possible.

Instructions:
First section the hair into squares. Square sections make round dreads. Between 1" and 2" squares works well for most people. Smaller sections make thinner dreads. The sections can be secured temporarily with rubber bands. After the hair is sectioned use a dread comb to comb the hair backwards. Start close to the scalp, not more than an inch away. Comb repeatedly towards the scalp. Eventually hair will start to pack up at the roots. It is not necessary to twist the hair. It is helpful however to roll the hair you are holding between your fingers a little while you are backcombing. Continue backcombing, slowly working towards the ends of the hair, making the dread as tight as possible as you go. When you reach the ends you can secure the dread with a rubber band. Another rubber band on the roots will help the dread stay tight at its base. The rubber bands can be removed after the dread has a chance to mature. After the rubber bands are applied to each dread the dreads should be waxed with a dread wax that does not contain petroleum. A good dread wax will tame loose hairs and help the hair dread much faster.

Dreads formed by backcombing look very much like dreads right after you do them, however they will tighten and smooth out a great deal as they mature. Using a good soap and wax is key to the development of the dreads. Well maintained dreads can reach maturity in as little as 3 to 4 months! The hair continues to dread as it grows in some cases by itself but in most cases it will need a little help. You can wear a rubber band on the root of stubborn dreads to help them lock up. Rubbing the root of the dread clockwise against the scalp also helps.

Tips: Starting with clean, residue free hair makes the process go much faster. Any residue in the hair tends to help the hair slip out of knots as you backcomb. Also be sure that the hair is completely dry when you back comb it.
Twisting

Advantages: It is all natural. You have control over the size of the dreads and how they form. Many salons are familiar with this method and the cost is usually much lower than a dread perm.

Disadvantages: It only works in African textured hair but that does not mean salons will not try it on Caucasian hair!

Instructions: Hair should be sectioned into squares. Square sections make round dreads. Between 1" and 2" squares works well for most people. Smaller sections make thinner dreads. As you section the hair you can secure each section with a rubber band. When the whole head is sectioned twist each section clockwise using a comb to snag the hair at the ends and twist. As each section is twisted dread wax should be worked in to hold the twists. Thick waxes without petroleum hold the hair much better when starting the dreads. After the dreads mature thinner waxes can be used to add fragrance and sheen. Rubber bands can also be used at the roots and tips to hold the hair for the first couple of weeks. Be sure not to attach the rubber bands too tightly, nice and snug will do the job just as well and should not break any hairs. Hair should be twisted by hand regularly to help it lock up.

Dreads can also be started in short black hair without sectioning by hand. The hair can actually section itself. To do this you need short curly African textured hair about 1/2" thick. Take a soft bristled brush and rub it gently in clockwise circles on the surface of the hair. As you rub the hair will magically form little nubs or balls of hair. These little nubs can be twisted by hand into dreads. Twisting and working in a little bit of thick dread wax will help them hold together and mature much faster. The nice thing about these sections is that they are chosen naturally by the hair and for this reason they dread nicely by themselves as they continue to grow Natural dreadlocks are created by the hair being naturally twisted with wax. If you currently have non dread locked hair, it would need to be backcombed with some wax and rolled in order to create that individual locked look.

Dread Locks Extensions.

You could get pony tail styled dreadlocks attachments if you want to wear your hair as a fashion statement for a while.

There are also dreadlocks wigs, but they can look a little funny at time.

Have fun but think carefully before you go down this route.

Dreadlocks are more than just a fashion statement.

Diane Shaw

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